NEEPS

JamesB · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 7:32 pm Post subject: stud walls

if you have a stud wall then I would doubt it would be anywhere near deep enough (might not even be 100mm). since you are going to the trouble and expense of removing the plasterboard anyhow then worth putting in a 2nd stud wall with a gap to the 1st stud wall. the 2nd stud wall can be thinner studs since not structura (although your 1st stud might not be either)l. you can then insulate between the studs and between the stud wall. you can also get less thermal bridging since the you will have a near continous layer of insulation between the stud walls. you can make the depth of insualation anythickness. we have this solution and was fairly easy to do (I did most of it myself). its also worth going to some trouble to make the inside of the inner stud wall as relatively airtight [ie draft proofing] as possible as per my previous post (it will pay back)

James
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JamesB
Mintlaw area

Julie · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 7:53 pm Post subject:

In a house with open fires or any combustion heat source, an airflow is essential (to comply with building regs if nothing else) exhaust fumes need to flow out and fresh air in. What suits one type of build may not be suitable for another. Ultimately, you need to work with what you've got don't you....well, unless you're completely redesigning your house and money is no object.
Wouldn't that be nice

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JamesB · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:10 pm Post subject:

sorry I should be clearer, I dont mean making really airtight in which case you need a ventillation system but removing as many of the drafts as possible ie relatively airtight. I'll edit my previous post to make clear, thanks for pointing it out.

if you have a wood burning stove then a separate supply of controllable combustible air is a good idea anyhow ie a pipe fed from outside directly into the stove. you stove will burn better and be easyier to start. even moden buildings in the uk built to poor airtighness often still need this nowadays for a stove to get started (or you open the front door)

once you go beyond a certain amount of insulation and depending on the draftyness of your house then it is more cost effective to draft proof(ie make realtively airtight) than to insulation.

my point really is if you are going to go to the trouble of rebuilding the inside of your house then worth getting doing more than just insulating. it is relatively cheap to do at this stage but very difficult once complete.im not talking about lots of money.

in terms of building regulations, the regs are getting much tighter in the uk for getting houses airtight but still have some way to go.
to give an idea, a traditional old house has something like 10 to 20 airchanges per hour, modern uk build might achieve 5 air changes, once you get down to 1-2 airchanges per hour then you need a ventilation system. so you could double or triple the airtight of an old house and not have any problems with air quality (for which you need a ventilation system).

the maximum 'build tight, ventilate right' is quite appropriate.

james
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JamesB
Mintlaw area

Julie · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:34 pm Post subject:

You'd hate me James, I love to fling all the windows open and blow a gale through the house

The original fresh air fiend, that's me

Got to agree though, if you're going to the trouble, you might as well do the best job you can.
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JamesB · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:42 pm Post subject:

yeah i do! (only kidding, i love u really!)

open windows are great in the summer but surely you dont open them in winter?

ive become very draft senstive in the last few years, anyone want a draft detector thats me!

James
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JamesB
Mintlaw area

Sassinak · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:54 pm Post subject:

I like to have the windows open for at least part of each day unless there is driving rain or really bitter cold.

As to the super insulation of the old granite house - surely a lot will depend on the size of the rooms and the amount that they are prepared to sacrifice? If they have fairly small rooms as were standard in the older properties, then to remove a foot from each dimension will have quite an impact on the usefulness.
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JamesB · Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 11:51 am Post subject:

well im not necessarily talking superinsulation (which is about 300mm of standard insulation), even at 150mm or 200mm of insulation, it worth doing something about draughts. It obviously depends on how draughty the current house. Also, modern insulations could produce an effective insulation of more than the same depth of standard insulation. also draught proofing takes up little depth so you might be even more inclined to save heat by draught proofing than by extra insulation.

opening windows is at least controlled ventilation whereas leaky walls, windows and doors is uncontrolled ventilation so better to remove constant draughts and have controllable ventilation.

James
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JamesB
Mintlaw area

Maidenstone · Neepster Joined: 14 May 2008 Posts: 303

We've also got a radon issue here, were tested a few years ago and have a medium reading though not high enough to require work to get rid of it. So we do need ventilation - although not draughts. I like our draughts because of the radon, but it's not pleasant living in a cold house in winter, and it's a waste of money heating the house only to have it all sucked out, let alone the environmental issues involved!
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Maidenstone · Neepster Joined: 14 May 2008 Posts: 303

I just wish we could build a zero carbon wooden house and sell this one!
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JamesB · Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 6:56 pm Post subject:

yes you need ventilation, everyone does but no-one needs draughts. we have good air quality since we have a ventilation system (some poeple seem to think that airtight houses would have bad air quality, they dont since they have ventilation systems).

if you have radon then I presume its coming from the ground or from grantite walls. you would need ventilation in the outside walls and under the floor but there is no reason why you need increased ventilation inside the house as long as you ventilated the exterior. actually i would of thought draughts from the walls and floor would be the last thing you want since they will allow radon in rather then getting it to the outside.

James
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JamesB
Mintlaw area